Petrolatum
Vaseline made it famous, but youโll find petrolatum in other moisturizers too. Itโs known as an occlusive, which is an ingredient that forms a barrier on the outermost layer of your skin to hold water in, sort of like a topcoat of nail polish, says Ranella Hirsch, MD, FAAD, a dermatologist in Cambridge, Massachusetts. Petrolatum is a great choice for trapping in the moist air after a steamy shower at night, but it could be too greasy to use during the day. โI wouldnโt use it in the morning, because you wouldnโt put makeup over it,โ says Dr. Hirsch. Click here to find more nighttime habits of people with great skin.
Oils
Because theyโre occlusive, oils like mineral, coconut, and avocado oil sit on top of the skin while sealing in moisture. But that barrier could be bad news for acne-prone skin, says Tina West, MD, PC, dermatologist and founder of skincare center The West Institute. โLook for something thatโs oil-freeโso no mineral oil, no silicones,โ she says. โItโs not specifically whatโs in in, itโs more what to stay away from. You want a lighter moisturizer, something that wonโt clog pores or cause an occlusive barrier.โ But if youโre not worried about breakouts, occlusives could be useful if your skin is losing moisture outside factors, like dry air in a heated office, because theyโll trap moisture that would otherwise evaporate out, says Dr. Hirsch. These essential oils take years off your skin.
Lanolin
Lanolin, an oil extracted from sheepโs wool, is an occlusive, but it also acts like an emollient, meaning it can help fill in the space between cells. โIf you think of them being like a cobblestone road, for example, the emollient will work by going between those little cracks and giving the skin a smoother texture,โ says Dr. West.
Dimethicone
Both occlusive and emollient, dimethicone-based moisturizers feel nice to apply because its silicone base makes it feel more velvety. โThey go on as a smooth product and donโt create that thick gooiness,โ says Dr. Hirsch. โYou want to use it in daytime because itโs more cosmetically elegant.โ Check out these other skin care tips dermatologists use.
Ceramides
Ceramides are a type of lipid, which are the molecules that appear naturally in your skin to help hold in water. Using them as a moisturizer ingredient can make that water retention more active, helped along by their fatty acids. โWe call it waxy because it fills in the cracks between cells and the surface, but it wonโt necessarily feel waxy,โ says Dr. West. This emollient is particularly helpful for people with eczema or very dry skin, she says.
Glycerin
As a humectant, glycerin attracts water into skin cells, helping your skin bring in more moisture. โYouโre getting something that fundamentally attracts water to the skin rather than keeping it from getting lost,โ says Dr. Hirsch. Humectants like glycerin are ideal moisturizers if your skin is dry from traveling. Try out these morning habits of people with great skin.
Hyaluronic acid
Another humectant, hyaluronic acid attracts moisture from the inner layer of skin cells, but it also attracts moisture from the air if itโs humid enough, says Dr. West. Because it can evaporate, itโs good to pair with an occlusive like dimethicone to help seal in the moisture, says Dr. Hirsch. โGet a product like hyaluronic acid to absorb the water and then something to help retain the water for a double boost,โ she says. โItโs a wonderful trick when it gets very dry with the season change.โ
Propylene glycol
Some people avoid propylene glycol because it isnโt natural, though thereโs no evidence showing it will cause any harm. โItโs like how some people would rather buy something at Whole Foods than CVS because itโs natural, but it doesnโt necessarily mean itโs better for you,โ says Dr. West. Seek out another humectant like hyaluronic acid if you try to avoid synthetic products, though propylene glycol is FDA-approved and shouldnโt cause a reaction unless you happen to be allergic. This is the worst skin care advice dermatologists have ever heard.
Urea
Urea is a humectant thatโs also somewhat exfoliating, but that extra function might not be as good as it sounds. โIn general, we donโt lack exfoliationโitโs just a common myth thatโs out there,โ says Dr. Hirsch. โThe truth is most people could stop exfoliating, and no harm, no foul.โ You already scrub off some of those dead cells just by washing your face, and over-exfoliating could leave your skin raw. If you have particularly oily skin, though, you might want to a moisturizer with urea in your regimen, says Dr. Hirsch.
Lactic acid
Lactic acid and urea both tend to be found in moisturizers marketed for people with extra dry skin because they help improve the skinโs ability to hold water. โTheyโre good for people who need a molecule to help break down the skin barrier,โ says Dr. West. Click here to find out the best skincare routine for dry skin.