Dermatologists Say This 1970s Anti-Aging Ingredient Is Still the Gold Standard for Gorgeous Skin

Humans have tried some pretty wild things to keep skin looking young, from crocodile dung masks in ancient Greece to Victorian-era mercury creams. Fast forward to today—when TikTok skincare trends come and go at light speed—and dermatologists say the true fountain of youth comes in a humble tube that’s been around since the 1970s.

It’s called tretinoin, a prescription-strength form of vitamin A also known as retinoic acid. Although it sounds similar, it’s different from retinol, an ingredient commonly found in over-the-counter anti-aging products. 

Tretinoin was first studied as a treatment for a condition that caused thick, painful skin. Soon after, researchers discovered its ability to tame acne—and today, dermatologists point to it as one of the most effective ingredients for healthy, youthful, resilient skin. 

Available in strengths ranging from 0.025% to 0.1%, tretinoin is sold in cream and gel forms (by prescription only) under brand names including Retin-A, Renova, Altreno, Avita, Atralin, and Refissa. 

Why is tretinoin good for skin?

Brooke Jackson, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist in Durham, North Carolina, says while tretinoin first gained fame as an acne treatment, research has since revealed its benefits extend far beyond clearing breakouts. 

A groundbreaking 1993 study published in the New England Journal of Medicine found that tretinoin dramatically increased collagen production in participants who used it. Meanwhile, those who used a run-of-the-mill facial cream showed typical age-related skin decline. 

Here’s why this boost matters for aging skin: Collagen is a protein essential for maintaining your skin’s firmness and elasticity, but as we age, we produce less and less. This contributes to wrinkling, sagging, and losing the skin’s healthy, elastic texture, explains Tanya Kormeili, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Santa Monica, California. 

Decades of research continue to support—and add to—these early findings. A 2025 review of research published in the journal  Dematology Practical & Conceptual confirms tretinoin increases collagen production while significantly improving the appearance of fine lines, coarse wrinkles, and sun-damaged skin. 

How does tretinoin slow aging?

Your skin constantly renews itself, creating fresh cells to replace those that are worn and weathered. Tretinoin accelerates this natural process by working as a mild exfoliant, Dr. Jackson says. “As your skin cells turn over faster, the dull, dry, damaged skin will be replaced with brand new skin cells.” The result? A fresh, dewy complexion that’s often called the “tret glow.” 

However, it’s important to note that this faster cell turnover leaves your skin more vulnerable to sun sensitivity—so daily use of sunscreen is essential. 

Tretinoin also shrinks oil glands and blocks inflammatory pathways that can lead to acne, Dr. Kormeili adds. And according to research published in Dermatologic Therapy, this activity even works to lighten acne scarring and hyperpigmentation.

Still, one of tretinoin’s most powerful anti-aging properties comes from its collagen-boosting effect. As explained above, collagen is a protein that keeps your skin firm and elastic. But as we enter early adulthood, collagen production declines about 1.0 to 1.5% per year, according to a review published in Plastic and Aesthetic Research.

Tretinoin helps put a stop to this natural decline in collagen, explains Dr. Kormeili. “It’s powerful enough to cross multiple barriers and enter the center of our skin cells, where it switches on those DNA genes responsible for collagen production.” 

Will tretinoin get rid of wrinkles?

Tretinoin can’t totally eliminate deep wrinkles like fillers or Botox would, but it does soften fine lines, says Debra Jaliman, MD, a board-certified NYC dermatologist and assistant professor of dermatology at the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai.

A 2022 review of 180 studies published in the International Journal of Women’s Dermatology expands on this wrinkle-reducing benefit, finding that most users can expect improvements to sun damage, pigmentation, sallowness, age spots, and texture, too. 

While the research says benefits can begin to show in as little as a month, results often take time—so patience and consistency are key. 

Tretinoin vs. retinol: which is better?

Tretinoin is part of the broader family of vitamin A derivatives known as retinoids. You’ve probably seen its close cousin, retinol, listed in many over-the-counter anti-aging products. 

But while it shares similar properties with tretinoin, derms say it’s not worth skipping the prescription. “Often retinol is unable to penetrate into the cell, and so it’s less effective in turning on the [collagen] DNA genes,” Dr. Kormeili says. “It is also incredibly sensitive to light.” This means that, depending on the packaging, your pricey cream might quickly lose its effectiveness.

Because tretinoin is stronger, Dr. Jaliman says that it also works faster than retinol. However, you can’t speed things up by using them together—you’re more likely to just cause skin irritation. 

When should I start using tretinoin for anti-aging?

Dr. Jackson advises her teenage patients to keep using their tretinoin even after their acne clears up. “They will thank me when they are over 40,” she says.

“I think of tretinoin as an investment in your skin 401K,” adds Dr. Kormeili. “If you’re old enough to vote or drink, you can probably start using it.”

In fact, Dr. Jaliman says, the only people who really shouldn’t use tretinoin are pregnant women (there’s not enough research available to confirm its safety) and those with ultra-sensitive skin, like if you’re prone to rosacea or eczema.

How do I use tretinoin?

Remember: Tretinoin works as an exfoliant, irritating skin so that shiny new cells will replace dull, damaged ones faster. This means it can cause side effects like redness, dryness, and flaking, especially during the first few weeks of use, Dr. Jackson explains. As tretinoin starts speeding up skin cell turnover, a temporary increase in acne breakouts (often referred to as “purging”) can occur as well.

“Start by using it every other night, and increase to every night as tolerated,” Dr. Jackson advises. “The trick is to balance [and] manage the irritation.” If side effects don’t subside within a few weeks, speak with your doctor. 

Another key point about tretinoin? You should avoid using other strong acne treatments, like benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid, in tandem with your prescription. Too much exfoliation action can do more harm than good. 

And once more, don’t skimp on the sunscreen. Dr. Kormeili emphasizes that tretinoin can significantly sensitize your skin to the sun, so you’ve got to invest in a good SPF. 

Are there alternatives to tretinoin?

Tretinoin is the only FDA-approved retinoid for the treatment of photoaging, but it can be harsh for people with ultra-sensitive skin. While irritation and dryness are normal as your skin gets used to the treatment, these side effects should go away within a few weeks. 

For those experiencing ongoing irritation with tretinoin, another retinoid called adapalene may be a good alternative. Adapalene is marketed for treating acne under brand names like Differrin, which you can buy over the counter at concentrations of 0.1% or lower. But 2022 research published in Advanced Therapies suggests that 0.3% adapalene gel (available by prescription) offers comparable results to 0.05 tretinoin cream, with fewer irritating side effects. 

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